Our first bigger trip with our new boat Malu was a week in the Buccaneer Archipelago. It was the first time we actually did some proper research before heading off as we both haven’t been in that area before and it was essential to know where to fish, camp, and fuel up as well as being prepared for the 10m tides of the Kimberley and some uncharted waters.
Derby lies at the bottom of the Kings Sound, 80km from Usborne Bay, the start of the Buccaneer Archipelago.
We barely were in the water when we spotted a massive crocodile cruising around in the Derby harbour. What a start into our adventure! After about 10km the murky water around Derby gave way to the crystal clear waters the Kimberley is famous for.
We had wind and tide in our favour and the 80km went smooth as.
We had time for a fish and I caught my first Fingermark. We found a nice sheltered bay on that little island for the 1st nights camp and enjoyed a campfire and sunset. It felt like we are in paradise.
The next day we made our way to Cone Bay where the Barramundi Farm is. On the way we stopped at Waterfall Beach – the waterfall was dry as we were there after the dry season. The beach is still a little gem.
The rest of the day we spent exploring Cone Bay and fishing. The next section of the trip would take us through Hells Gate, also known as Fantom Passage or Whirlpool Passage. We had to time that right with the tides to avoid the whirls and strong currents.
Early in the morning we tackled the Hells Gate. We timed it right with the tide and it was a very smooth passage. There were still a lot of whirls that are strong enough to swing the boat around and you have to be very alert steering. I recommend checking the tides before passing through this channel. It can get rough in the wrong conditions, in good conditions it’s fun and fascinating.
We explored Strickland Bay and fished, before we decided on where we’d camp the night. We found another lovely sheltered beach in the Yampi Sound with view of the Cockatoo Island. We found big oysters on low tide.
Some amazing rock formations on this penninsula 
a scramble through the rocks takes you to the back side 
the view at the back of us 
some more crazy rocks on the back side 
our side of the penninsula 
view from where camp is set up 
We also spotted some spots on the rock that seemed to glow in the dark. 
When I took a picture with flash, these spots reflected the light very intensely. Wonder what mineral or rock type it is. 
We enjoyed a campfire near the water, until it got washed away by the tide.
The next day we headed out to Cockatoo Island. The resort was closed so we went for a fish around the two rocks – The Picaninnies – that lay in front of it.
Around lunch time we got to Dog Leg, where the fuel barge is located, what an experience fuelling up in the middle of nowhere!
From there we headed into Silver Gull Creek to explore the camp, which was established in the 1950s as a freshwater supply point for the mines and passing boats.
1995 Phil Wray and Marion Smart stopped here on a sailing trip and never left. They built a house, a tropical garden and a freshwater swimming tank. If you want to know more, read the article on this link:
Clothes optional in top end oasis Silver Gull, in Western Australia’s Kimberley region – ABC News
Today it is still a popular stop for anyone passing through the Archipelago. The main house is still in good condition and looks well used, so does the swimming tank. The freshwater pipe to fill up drinking water is still functional too.
Heading to Silver Gull Creek 
Found the creek entrance 
you can see the main building 
up top of the rocks 
Looks like the perfect mooring spot 
anchor to secure the boat on two spots, instead of only the buoy. What a mistake! 
The main building with a kitchen 
books left by other travelers, as well as other things like this broken tent, still works to hide from mozzies I guess 
view from the kitchen – there used to be a little garden in that frame 
a bird bath 
the main building from above 
the property is overlooking the creek
That day was the first time we got caught out by the tide. We tied Malu up to a mooring spot on the rocks at high tide, thinking we would be back soon. The camp was so interesting to stroll through, we ended up being up there for about an hour, before returning to the boat. The tide had dropped a good couple metres and Malu was hanging vertically off the rocks!
We had to push her down the rocks into the water to avoid the incoming tide to flood the motor before she’d float again. That was a hairy moment and very scary experience. Imagine loosing the motor out here, or even the whole boat!
We took her around the other side of the camp and found a better spot to park and leave her for the night.
Later we heard a noise in the main building and went, armed with torches, to find out what was in there. Turned out to be a spotted quoll! What a privilege to get to see one! they are quite shy and nocturnal, so it not an usual encounter.
The following day it was already time to head back south.
On the way we spotted a whale! We went closer, always leaving a safe distance, and discovered it was a mother with her baby! How incredible to witness that!
We spent a while with the whales, then had to make tracks as the day after we had to be back in Derby.
In the morning we had to wait for the tide to come in as Malu was sitting high and dry on the beach. We went for a little explore along the beach and then tackled the ride back to Derby, through the Kings Sound.
We couldn’t have timed it much worse. The tide was going out, means against our direction, the wind had picked up and blew in the opposite direction of the tide making the swell decent enough to slow us down immensely, and spraying us with sea water until we were soaked. On the day we started our adventure it took us just over 2hours to reach Usborne Bay. The day we returned it took us over 4 hours to reach Derby!
In hindsight, this was nothing. The second trip we did up there a couple years later, the weather conditions on our way home were dangerous! You’ll have to wait for a bit before that blog will be up, I’m afraid. Watch this space, there will be a blog about “Horizontal Falls” after a couple others.
Explored in August 2023, written November 2025