The Litchfield National Park in the Northern Territory covers over 1400km2 and we have visited this stunning place many times over the years.
Its proximity to Darwin makes it a very popular spot for weekenders for a get away from the city or travellers on the way to or from Darwin. With its 4WD tracks, numerous waterfalls, lots of swimming opportunities and walk trails it literally has something for everyone.
From the Stuart Highway you can take the turnoff to Berry Springs (North entrance) which takes you past the Territory Wildlife Park (a great zoo!!) or the turnoff to Batchelor (South entrance).
I will take you through the National Park from the South to the North end.
Batchelor is one of the bigger towns in that area, with just a bit over 500 residents. It’s best known as the gateway to Litchfield National Park and has a petrol station which also serves as a grocery store, bistro, bottle shop and pub. Along the road you come past ‘caution, horses’ signs, but it was not until our last visit that we actually got to see them.
The camp spots within Litchfield National Park have to be booked online. If you are visiting during peak tourist season (May – September) or during school or public holidays, you need to book well ahead. At Florence Falls you get some spotty reception, in the rest of the national park you won’t, so book the camp before heading into the park, regardless of the season.
There are quite a few alternatives outside the National Park, where you can stay within 30km or less from the National Park. We discovered ‘Zebra Stone’ which is mainly an attraction for the jewelry and art they create from the unique Zebra Stone. They do offer unpowered sites in their paddock, and we enjoyed our stay immensely as it felt like we’re just somewhere in the bush.
Our set up on the paddock 
We love our mozzie dome! 
Cooking without flies! 
A dead tree right in front of us seemed to be the gathering place 
of black cockatoos 
so many chattering away and cleaning their feathers 
some squabbles 
and it seems a little love affair 
closer and closer these two got 
the red tail is the male, the female has a lot of golden spots 
and a beautiful full moon to top it off 
The first stop coming from Batchelor is the magnetic termite mounds. Australia is home to over 360 termite species. If you travel Australia by road you will sooner rather than later come across termite mounds. Along the road they are often ‘decorated’, wearing mining hats or t-shirts.
Some termites build their nests within trees, others underground and then we have the ones that build mounds. There are different types of mounds too, the cathedral, the magnetic, etc. Litchfield National Park has so far been the only place I’ve seen the fascinating magnetic termite mounds.
Cathedrals are built on well-drained soil; Magnetic mounds are built on seasonally flooded black soil. Both can reach a height of over 5m.
Magnetic mounds are so fascinating because they are built on a North-South axis, this means, one side of the mound is always in the shade and protected from the fierce Australian sun. 
They look extremely slim from North and South side, very wide looking at them from the West or East. 
Magnetic termites are only found on the Australian continent and here only in the North. 
in the lush green during the wet season 2026 
the mounds are freshly covered in black soil 
In September 2021 after the dry season they were bleached white. 
the system within a mound
On the other side of the same car park, you can admire a massive Cathedral mound which is said to be over 50 years old and still home to termites.
The next stop is Florence Falls and Buley Rockhole. They are close together and you can easy walk from one to the other. Florence Falls camp is by far the most popular one as it is so close for a swim.
From the Florence Falls car park you can walk on one side of the creek up to Buley Rockhole and back along a well-maintained walkway via a lookout onto the falls. Along the way are a few tracks down to the stream and you can cool off at any of them. The walk from Florence Falls to Buley Rockhole is 3.2km return. Via the lookout, making it a Loop Trail, it is only a few hundred metres longer.
From this one you can connect to the 42km Tabletop loop track which takes you to Wangi Falls and back.
Left, May after the big wet season of 2026; right after the dryseason in September 2021. Definitely less water but still going strong.
And here the left one is in May 2026; the right one is in February 2026 – in the middle of the wet season.
in September 2021 we swam in the pool at Florence Falls 
it is a nice pool and a beauty of a waterfall 
so much fun too 
In Februrary 2026 the falls were pumping 
and the platform from where you enter the pool was flooded, we also didn’t know about crocodiles … so no swimming this time 
May 2026 I didnt even take a photo from the pool, it was that packed 
this is the well maintained path on the way back 
the walk on this side is like a rainforest, the other side is more open 
one of the side tracks taking you to a swim spot, so much better than at the crowded pool! 
A goanna came to say high 
Incredible how close he came, us sitting still, but chatting away 
thought this was his target but he zoomed in on discarded bones from a past bbq instead 
The Buley Rockhole has its own car park if you do not feel like strolling along the river. It is an extremely popular swim hole. The first time we were there was in September 2021 and it wasn’t overly crowded. In May 2026 there were so many people (close to a hundred!) there we ventured on until we found a hidden, deserted little pool to cool off.
From there further westwards you come to the turn off for the Tabletop Swamp, a picnic area. From there you can follow a dirt track to the Lost City – only accessible in the dry season.
The lost city is aptly named, since the rocky outcrops resemble ruins of a long-lost city. It is good fun strolling around amongst them.
These rocky outcrops have been part of the tabletop, … 
…but big sections have been weathered down, …. 
…ground to sand … 
… and washed to sea. 
What remains, is the more resistant rock which over time cracked and weathered and now resemble block like shapes – like ruins of buildings. 
or in this case, an Elephant 
Tolmer Falls is the next one coming up along the main road. It is a 1.5km walk to the lookout. An optional 300m detour makes the walk a loop and takes you along Tolmer Creek and a tributary. First time we did the extra 300m we got lost and that short distance turned into a half hour adventure.
Cycads – a living fossil? 
Although the cycad lineage is ancient – cycad fossils dating back 280 million years! – … 
…most current species have only evolved in the last 12 million years 
the extended walk 
is well worth it! 
Nice view point 
down onto the falls 
Busy wasps 
another lookout platform provides sweeping views, see the gallery below…
The next stop is Greenant Greek / Tjaetaba Falls. A 3km return walk takes you from the car park along the Greenant Creek to Tjaetaba Falls. From here you can walk to Florence Falls, 26.2km or to Wangi Falls 12km.
After Greenant Creek you can head south on a 4WD track – only accessible in the dry season. The Blyth Homestead, Sandy Creek and Surprise Creek are down that way. Surprise Creek is probably best accessed from Daly River rather than from the Litchfield side. The first time we were here the road was open, but we didn’t have the time to spend another day. All other times we were here the road was closed either because it was flooded or because of too many crocodiles inhabiting the remaining water.
Heading north from Greenant Creek you got the fantastic Wangi Falls. It features a big clearing where people roast in the sun and a shallow entrance to the pool with two waterfalls. It’s a beautiful spot. There is a 2km loop walk which takes you up and around the swim hole past the top of the waterfalls. The walk and pool were only open on our first visit in September 2021. 2026 was a very big wet season and by May it was still flooded and closed.
Our visit in February 2026 was very impressive after the huge wet season. The whole area was under water and the waterfalls were thundering!
Further north are the Cascades which offer a series of pools with a waterfall. The further you walk, the less people you have to share the pools with 😉.
There are two versions of a walk you can do, the Lower Cascades (3km return) and the Upper Cascades (4km loop – dry season; 3.6km return – wet season). The Upper Cascades walk takes you up onto the Tabletop Plateau with sweeping views.
the upper cascades walk … 
… takes you through monsoon forest … 
…which gives way to the Savanna, a very different vegetation zone 
the lush green gives way to open and dry land (in the dry season) 
the open terrain allows for fantastic views down into the national park 
at the end of the trail 
…waits a refreshing shower 
Towards the National Park Border there is just Walker Creek and Bamboo Creek left after the Cascades.
From Walker Creek you can walk to Florence Falls, 14km; or to Wangi Falls, 20km.
At Walker Creek is a 4km walk (one way) along the creek with a walk in only camp site and several swimming opportunities.
Bamboo Creek is an old Tin Mine you can explore on a short 600m walk. We have never visited this one.
With this fabulous shot I say bye for now. I’ll be busy working on the next blog soon, don’t worry.
Thanks for your patience with the sometimes longer gaps between blogs, I do my best.
Explored September 2021 and a few times in 2026, written September 2026